Spring vegetables to plant in the UK
Spring is the busiest sowing season. But “spring” means something different in Devon and something different in Dundee. The key is your local last frost date — enter your postcode to find yours.
Hardy crops — start now
These can go outdoors before your last frost. They tolerate cold nights and light frosts. In most of the UK, you can start sowing these from late February through March.
Pinch out the growing tips once the first pods form to discourage blackfly. They'll also ripen faster.
Sow every 3 weeks for a continuous harvest. Pick regularly to keep them producing — leave one pod on and the whole plant slows down.
Sow a short row every 2 weeks and you'll never buy a supermarket bag again. Pick outer leaves to keep it going.
Bolts the moment it gets hot. Best in spring and autumn. Pick little and often — a whole plant cooks down to about two mouthfuls.
The quickest crop you can grow — seed to plate in 4 weeks. Sow between slower crops to use the space while you wait.
Sow thinly to avoid thinning — the smell of crushed leaves is a dinner bell for carrot fly. Cover with fleece to be safe.
Each seed cluster produces several seedlings — thin to the strongest. Don't chuck the leaves, they're delicious wilted with butter.
Push sets into the soil with the tip just showing. Easiest way to grow onions — skip seed unless you enjoy waiting.
Chit (sprout) seed potatoes on a windowsill before planting. Earth up as they grow — if you see green skin, it's toxic.
Gets sweeter after a frost. One of the hardiest crops — can harvest all winter.
Very slow to germinate (2-4 weeks). Use fresh seed every year. Sow radishes alongside to mark the row.
Sow a pinch every few weeks and you'll have spring onions all season. Dead easy — one of the best crops for beginners.
Beautiful and productive. Pick outer leaves and it keeps going for months. Rainbow chard looks stunning.
Harvest when golf-ball sized for the sweetest flavour. Leave them too long and they go woody. Quick-growing gap filler.
Drop seedlings into deep holes and just water in — no need to fill the hole. They'll fatten up on their own.
Cut the main head first and you'll get side shoots for weeks. Purple sprouting is the real star — worth the long wait.
Different varieties for each season — spring, summer, autumn, and winter types. Red cabbage is less bothered by caterpillars.
Fold outer leaves over the curd to keep it white. Cauliflower leaves are delicious too — don't throw them away.
Grow through summer, harvest from autumn through winter. Flavour improves after frost. Start early — they're slow.
Plant individual cloves Oct-Nov, pointed end up, 2.5cm deep. Garlic needs a cold period to form bulbs. Harvest when lower leaves yellow.
Slow to germinate (3-4 weeks) — don't give up on it. Soak seeds overnight in warm water to speed things up. Flat-leaf has the stronger flavour.
Half-hardy crops — sow indoors now, plant out after frost
These need warmth to germinate but can handle cool (not freezing) conditions once established. Start them on a windowsill or in a heated propagator in March or April, then plant out a couple of weeks after your last frost.
Plant in a block, not a row — they're wind-pollinated and need neighbours. Each plant gives you 1-2 cobs, so don't be stingy with numbers.
You only need 2-3 plants. Seriously. Pick them small (15cm) or they turn into marrows overnight.
Dwarf varieties need no support. Pick every few days — once they start producing, they don't stop (unless you let pods go to seed).
Big hungry plants — give them space and feed them well. Leave to cure in the sun before storing and they'll keep for months.
Limit each plant to 2-3 fruits for bigger pumpkins. Sit them on a tile or slate to stop rot from underneath.
Bolts at the slightest excuse. Sow every 3-4 weeks, pick frequently, and choose slow-bolt varieties. It's a race you can win if you stay on top of it.
Dead easy and fast. Gets spicier in hot weather — which is either a feature or a bug depending on your taste. Pick leaves small for salads.
Sow early spring or after midsummer — it'll bolt faster than you can blink in the heat. Worth it though. Fast-growing and very rewarding.
Sow after midsummer for best bulbs — earlier sowings often bolt. Don't transplant bare-root, it hates root disturbance. Use modules.
Sow seeds on the surface — they need light to germinate. Start early in a propagator. Cutting celery is much easier than trench celery if you're new to it.
Sow direct — dill absolutely hates being transplanted. Short rows every few weeks for continuous supply. Gets to 90cm, so give it a sheltered spot.
Tender crops — patience pays off
Don't be tempted to sow these too early. They need warm soil and no risk of frost. Sow indoors from late March to April, but don't plant out until well after your last frost date — typically late May in the south, early June in the north.
Pinch out side shoots on cordon types. Feed weekly with tomato feed once the first truss sets. Don't overwater — flavour comes from a bit of stress.
Start early — they're slow growers. Pinch out the first flower to encourage bushier growth and more fruit overall.
Need heat to germinate — use a propagator or the warmest windowsill you've got. The more sun they get, the hotter the fruit.
Outdoor varieties are tougher and easier than greenhouse ones. Keep picking and they keep producing — ignore them and they swell to marrow size.
Build a strong frame — they get seriously heavy. Pick every 2-3 days or they go stringy and the plant stops producing.
Start very early — January isn't too soon. Limit to 5-6 fruits per plant if you want decent-sized aubergines rather than marbles.
Pinch out flower buds to keep leaves coming. Harvest from the top to encourage bushy growth. Loves heat — don't even think about putting it outside before June.
When exactly should I start?
It depends entirely on where you are. A grower in Penzance can sow outdoors weeks before someone in Inverness. That's why we built this tool — enter your postcode and we'll calculate your frost date and tell you exactly what to sow this week.