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Freshly raked allotment bed with sowing drills marked out, greenhouse visible in the background under a blue spring sky
allotment · soil prep · spring

How to prepare allotment beds for planting

Most of April at the allotment was ground work. Clearing beds, digging them over, raking them down. Satisfying while you are doing it, and worth getting right before anything goes in.

Clearing first

Before anything else, get the weeds out. Pull up everything that is growing and get the roots if you can. Annual weeds go on the compost. Perennial weeds — dock, couch grass, bindweed — need more care; even a small fragment of root will come back. This is the part nobody photographs, but it matters most.

A freshly dug and cleared allotment bed ready for raking, with other prepared beds visible in the background
Cleared and ready for digging.

Digging over

I use a fork rather than a spade — it loosens the soil without inverting it and bringing the subsoil up. Work from one end, push the fork in to its full depth, lever forward. If you have compost or manure, work it in as you go. The soil should end up dark and crumbly. If it is still coming up in heavy wet clods, wait a few days — working wet soil does more harm than good.

Top tip

If it sticks to your boots in clumps, wait. Wet soil worked into clods is hard to recover.

Raking a seed bed

For anything that is going to be direct sown — carrots, beetroot, radishes, salad — the surface needs to be fine. Rake back and forth until the clods are gone. To make a drill, press the corner of the rake or a bamboo cane into the surface in a straight line. Shallow for small seeds, deeper for peas and beans.

Neatly raked allotment soil with parallel sowing drills marked out ready for seeds, greenhouse in the background
Raked and drilled, ready to sow.

Covering what is not ready

An uncovered bed in spring fills with weeds fast. If a bed is prepared but not going in for a few weeks, cover it — weed membrane, cardboard, anything that keeps the light off. I weight the edges down with bricks. When the time comes, a cross-cut in the membrane and you plant straight through it. It then keeps the weeds down for the whole season.

A wooden raised bed covered with black weed membrane weighted down with bricks, with an arch and greenhouse visible behind it
Covered and waiting.
A raised bed filled with fresh compost over a cardboard sheet-mulch layer
Cardboard, then compost
Compost planting stations marked out in neat rows across a dug strip
Stations marked out
The no-dig order of work: cardboard down, compost on top, planting stations marked out.

I use heavy-duty woven membrane held down at the edges with bricks. It also warms the soil slightly and holds moisture in — both useful in a UK spring that can turn cold without much warning.

Top tip

Planting through membrane works well for big transplants — tomatoes, courgettes, squash. Cut an X, fold back the triangles, plant through.

from the shed

What I used in this post

Worth the upgrade
Terradix 5x300 broadfork

Terradix 5x300 broadfork

~£129

A wide, beautifully made broadfork that breaks up heavy clay with your weight rather than your back. Not cheap, but a real pleasure — it's changed how I feel about digging.

The width is the joy — you cover far more with every lift.

Compare Terradix 5x300 broadfork
Essential

Showa 370 gardening gloves

~£5

My favourites — light, close-fitting and grippy, so you can still feel what you're doing. Cheap enough to own a few pairs.

Buy two pairs — one's always drying.

Compare Showa 370 gardening gloves
Essential

Galvanised ground pegs (50)

Galvanised pegs for pinning down weed membrane and netting so the wind doesn't take it. You always need more than you think.

Compare Galvanised ground pegs (50)

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