Champagne
The one the Yorkshire forcing sheds keep behind locked doors. Pale pink stems, barely any tartness, and it forces beautifully in the dark to produce the most tender, delicate rhubarb you'll ever taste. If you get this one, you've won.
Poached champagne rhubarb
Cut into elegant lengths, poach very gently in a light syrup of sugar, vanilla, and a strip of lemon peel until just tender. Serve with creme fraiche. The pale pink colour deepens to rose. Handle it like the precious thing it is.
Rhubarb and custard tart
Lay poached pink stems in a blind-baked pastry case, pour over a vanilla custard, bake until just set with a trembling centre. The pink rhubarb glows through the golden custard. Dessert of the year, every year.
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